Article originally appeared in Quail Forever magazine.

An Extension Of You

There are many sporting breeds for upland bird hunting and everyone has a personal preference. In my experience, many types and breeds of dogs can be effective hunters. Most sporting breeds produce well rounded companions with the genetics to excel while hunting in the field or on the lake. A good bird dog, regardless of breed, will give you a longer reach and the ability to find, point or flush and retrieve more birds than you could on your own. The shooting part, though, is up to you.

Upland Types

There are three general categories sporting dogs used for upland bird hunting: Flushing, Pointing and Retrieving. Each type has its own strengths and characteristics in addition to variations among the breeds within each type. Following is a very general overview of what you can expect from a hunting companion of each type. Keep in mind that these are general statements and you may see significant differences not just among different breeds but also between dogs of the same breed.

Pointing Breeds

As a breeder and trainer of pointing dogs for many years I’m a little biased. Pointing dogs fit my hunting style best but I have enjoyed hunting with Flushers and Retrievers as well.

• Hunting Strengths – Pointing breeds are often somewhat smaller and leaner than retrievers and capable of covering a lot of ground due to tremendous athleticism. Some breeds have less speed but still exhibit great endurance. They will generally hunt within gun range and, upon finding a bird, they will lock on point and give you time to approach for a comfortable shot. Most pointing breeds will naturally retrieve to hand.
• Common Breeds – Brittany, English Setter, German Shorthaired Pointer, German Wirehaired Pointer and Pointer (English).

 Retrieving Breeds

Retrievers include the most popular registered breed (Labrador Retriever) according to the American Kennel Club (AKC). This is generally considered to be a result of the intelligence and social nature of the breed.

• Hunting Strengths – Retrieving breeds are known for their versatility and their ability to withstand extreme cold be it snow, ice or water. They generally have a more rugged build but maintain good speed and agility. They will quarter in front of the hunter to flush upland birds and should stay within comfortable gun range. As you can tell from the name, they are enthusiastic retrievers of upland birds and they love the water.
• Common Breeds – Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Golden Retriever and Labrador Retriever.

 Flushing Breeds

Flushers also include some breeds that are very popular as house companions due to their size, appearance and disposition. For the most part, Spaniels populate the flushing category.

• Hunting Strengths – Flushing breeds are generally smaller in stature than many pointing and retrieving counterparts. They will quarter in front of the hunter to flush birds and should also stay within comfortable gun range. Like Retrievers, they are very comfortable in water and have coats that are well suited to extreme cold. Flushers will naturally retrieve to hand and are well known for their stamina.
• Common Breeds – Boykin Spaniel, English Cocker Spaniel and English Springer Spaniel.

 Many Good Choices

The thing to remember is that the best bird dog is the one that fits your hunting style. Research breeds and find one with the traits and qualities you desire. Training and hunting with an instinctive hunting companion can provide many years of outdoor enjoyment. If you don’t have the time or experience to train him, we encourage you to work with a professional to bring out the natural gifts of whatever breed you choose.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

Evaluating and monitoring dehydration in dairy calves is an important task for good calf performance and survivability.  This requires good management – careful observation, attention to individual calves and the ability to monitor dehydration.  Sick calves may lose up to 10% of their bodyweight in a single day when they are scouring.  When a calf losses 14% of its bodyweight, death occurs and it is the dehydration, not microorganisms, that typically kills these scouring calves (Table 1).  Early identification and treatment of dehydrated calves will help increase calf survival rates.

Steps to Evaluate Dehydration:

1. The first step is to evaluate the fecal scores of your calves.  Calves with very loose or runny feces are at a high risk of being dehydrated.
2. Inspect those calves that are at risk for the classic signs of dehydration:

a.   Sunken eyes

b.   Dry mouth and nose

c.   Weight loss

d.   Fast or very slow pulse

e.   Cold ears and/or cold legs

Tenting Test for Dehydration:

A good test for dehydration is the skin tenting check.  To conduct a tenting test:

1. Firmly pinch the loose folds of skin on the neck of the calf and check to see how long the skin remains tented.
2. If the skin remains tented for 2 to 6 seconds, the calf is moderately dehydrated.  Start oral feeding of a good electrolyte like Kentrol to assist rehydration.
3. If the skin remains tented longer than 6 seconds, it is an indication that the calf is severely dehydrated (10% dehydrated).  Calves observed in this state of dehydration need professional veterinary interventions with intravenous fluid administration.  Following the intravenous therapy, oral electrolyte therapy should be continued to maintain proper hydration.

Treating Dehydrated or Scouring Calves:

At the first signs of dehydration (section 2 above and tenting of 2-3 seconds), the easiest way to treat is oral feeding calves an electrolyte solution like Kentrol.  If the calf is exhibiting moderate to severe dehydration or not consuming liquids orally, the Kentrol should be given via an esophageal feeder.

Kent Kentrol contains dextrose and other energy sources; alkalinizing agents to treat acidosis; and sodium, potassium, and chloride to replenish lost electrolytes.  Kentrol also contains a gelling agent to aid absorption and reduce scouring.  Feed moderately dehydrated calves 2 quarts of Kentrol electrolyte solution, mixed according to the label recommendations twice daily until calves recover.  During this period, continue feeding dehydrated calves milk or Milk Replacer to ensure nutrient intake.  Kentrol (100 grams per 2 qt. water) and Milk Replacer (10 oz. per 2 qt. water) should be mixed separately per directions and fed to achieve recommended intakes.  The Kentrol mixture should be fed before or after Milk Replacer for 2 to 4 days or until the calf is no longer scouring and does not appear to be dehydrated based on skin tenting and observation.  When properly mixed separately, the Kentrol and Milk Replacer can be fed at the same time as long as recommended daily intakes are achieved.  However, never mix the recommended amount of Kent Kentrol and Milk Replacer in only two quarts of water as the resulting mixture is too high in osmolarity and may cause additional scouring.  When feeding waste milk, wait at least 30 minutes after milk feeding before feeding electrolytes, since most electrolytes contain bicarbonate or citrate, which can prevent milk clotting in the abomasum.

Article originally appeared in Pheasants Forever magazine.

Match Your Style

Certain things just go together well, and that applies to hunters and dogs. Dogs and their owners begin to resemble one another over time and take on characteristics of each other’s personalities. There’s some truth to that, but there are also mismatches that take place. Some dogs and hunters should not be together because there is too much difference between performance and expectation.

 A Question of Range

A common problem is hunters who expect dogs to hunt close but buy a puppy that’s bred to range and find birds. In most cases, a hunter buys a breed he has heard good things about, and then spends his time reining the dogs in too tightly. This is known as over-controlling and can damage the dog’s bird-finding ability. You need to be honest with yourself about your expectations, and buy a breed of dog that matches your hunting style. If you already have a dog that doesn’t match your style, you should come to terms with that and let your dog’s natural abilities develop.

Do You And Your Dog Match?

It’s important to recognize your preferred hunting style. If you have a pointing dog that likes to cover ground, and you’re constantly on the whistle or pushing the buttons on your e-collar, the two of you are possibly not meant for each other. Most pointing breeds are meant to range so you don’t have to stay with him and cover all the same ground. If you trust your dog to hold birds, you can let him range a little. You can always hustle over to him when the chase gets hot or you know they’re on point. Letting go of control can mean more birds and happier days in the field.

Why Over-Controlling can be detrimental

Over-controlling your dog can have negative affects you may not realize. An over-controlled dog may focus on where you want him instead of on finding birds. He becomes more worried about making a mistake than following his hunting instincts. In this light, you can see why it’s so important to trust your dog and let him hunt. Don’t confuse letting him hunt, though, with being lax on discipline. Your dog needs to follow through with commands. He can’t read signs and doesn’t know where you have permission to hunt. Lack of discipline can also be dangerous as he trails a bird out toward a road with traffic.

Good Hunter, Good Citizen

Many people want a great hunting dog that is also a good pet. If you want your hunting dog to be a good family dog, you need to make sure that’s what your breeder is breeding. The best way to do this is to research the breeder and ask many questions. You should also look at the parents to make sure they have the kind of personality you want in your dog. Consider all of this before bringing your kids to see the puppies or it may be too late. Kids and cute puppies have a way of going home together.

Freedom To Hunt Under Control

Like good employers that understand employees and turn them loose to do what they do best, you have to allow your dog to hunt. The years you spend together with your dog can be fun or frustrating. Consider this carefully as you choose a dog or come to terms with the one you already own.

To learn more about Chad’s training methods, visit www.willowcreekkennels.net.

Article originally appeared in Quail Forever magazine.

Feeding For Performance

As a breeder and trainer of canine athletes, we’ve spent many years refining our feeding program to ensure peak performance and condition throughout the year. Consequently, we get a lot of questions about the feeding regimen in our kennel. Following is a summary of some of the key points to consider regarding daily feeding requirements.

 Focus First on Hydration

Before you consider how to feed, you must address the top priority. Dehydration is likely the greatest risk you face when moving from your off-season routine into the hunting season. While dogs don’t sweat, they lose water through a variety of other activities. The importance of a constant supply of clean, fresh water cannot be underestimated and is likely the greatest contribution you can make to the health of your dog. Maintain a steady supply of water throughout the year and allow your dog to replenish with frequent small doses while hunting.

 Special Attention To Puppies

Puppies have 2-3 times the maintenance requirement of a similar sized adult. This makes it more difficult to meet their caloric needs as activity increases. We tell our customers that their puppy burns a lot of fuel but has a small tank. Consequently, we suggest feeding in small increments 3-4 times daily until at least six moths of age to make sure energy needs are met. Since obesity can also cause major health issues down the road, we avoid overfeeding to consistently maintain ideal body condition.

Adult Requirements

Feeding an adult dog is easy during the off-season since there is little fluctuation in their requirements. A fifty pound dog can generally maintain proper body condition on 1000-1500 calories daily with normal temperatures and activity levels. As activity increases for the hunting season, calorie requirements can increase by as much as 50%. It is important to monitor your dog to make sure he maintains the proper condition to perform at the desired level throughout the season.

 Meal Time

In our kennel, we place a great deal of importance on feeding times. Whatever the age of your dog, it is important to time feedings to allow for proper digestion before periods of activity. Here are a few quick feeding tips to help you avoid digestive issues with your dog.

1)      Avoid feeding in the heat of the day as this can result in increased body temperature caused by the digestive process.

2)      Allow at least 2 hours between feeding and exercise to help avoid digestive issues like indigestion and bloat.

3)      Break daily feeding into at least 2 meals (e.g. morning and evening) as this also helps avoid digestive issues.

It is also important to train your dog to eat when offered. This will allow you to more easily adhere to the tips noted above and avoid problems while maximizing performance.

A Winter Coat

We’ll close with comments on how environmental factors affect calorie requirements. If your dog spends the winter in low temperatures, his body is forced to generate its own heat. He may need up to 30% more calories to generate the required body heat. If he’s curled up indoors with you, though, it’s best to avoid the extra calories and keep him lean and mean. This will make it easier to get him back into hunting form when the weather warms.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

When determining how to feed your thin horse, knowing the current body condition score and estimated weight of your horse can be very helpful. When we see our pasture partners every day it is difficult to monitor changes in weight or condition. Weight tapes are a good tool to estimate weight. Following are some ideas for feeding the thin or recovering horse once you have a good assessment of its condition.

• Provide plenty of clean, fresh water and approximately 1%-2% of your horse’s body weight in good quality forage. Having access to ample quality forage spread out in 2-3 feedings will minimize gorging.

 

• Special feeding situations may need to be implemented for the thin horse if it is at the bottom of the pecking order. Feeding a complete balanced ration of concentrate feeds in addition to the forage is best. Approximately .75#-1.5# per 100# of body weight is a good starting point depending on the specific feed and body condition. Keep in mind you need approximately 6000 kcals above those needed for maintenance to reach one pound of gain per day. According to the 2007 Equine NRC, the estimated increase in DE intake necessary to change the condition score of a 500-kg (1100-lb) horse from a body score 4 to a 5 is 5300-6700kcal/day for 60 days.

 

• While beet pulp has some benefits, including a high-fiber content which may “normalize” fermentation in the large intestine, it is not particularly high in kcals and contains no vitamin A. Although processed beet pulp is not high in sugar, some beet pulp products have added molasses to increase palatability, so check labels carefully, especially if your horse has carbohydrate tolerance issues. Also when feeding beet pulp, it is best to feed it wet. This will help encourage increased water intake especially in the winter. Although no good documentation is available, feeding beet pulp dry raises a common concern that the product may swell after consumption leading to an increased risk of both choke and colic.
• A good choice for increased weight gain is to look for a feed or top dress option with a high kcal (digestible energy -DE measurement) and fat content. High fat feeds need to be introduced gradually but offer a palatable, balanced solution for your horse that will help you get the Kcals you need to meet the weight gain goals necessary for your horse.

For more information about the nutrient-packed feeds and high fat, top dress options from Kent Feeds, visit our website www.kentequine.com and check out the product OMEGATIN®. While you are there, take advantage of the free download of the body condition score card to help you monitor the progress of your horse.

Top 5 Tips getting ready to Show and Win
Getting the horse ready – Have you started to remove the winter coat and increase your training regiment? Now is the time to do so. Using our Omegatin product helps renew that hair and coat just in time for your first show. This product is great for enhancing body condition. www.omegatin.com

Get the trailer ready – Check the tires, breaks, registration, lights and floors. Make sure everything is going to provide safe transportation for you, your family and equine friends. Clean out the tack area and update your supplies to fit your travel needs.

Get the rider ready – Does the show attire fit like it did last year? Is it time to buy new, trim down or just make sure all the sequins or there, boots are polished and zippers are working? Having all of this ready now is better than trying to do it the night before. Don’t forget to do this for everyone in the family who participates.

Get the tack ready – Take the cover off and give it a good polish. Make sure all the leather is in good shape, not cracked or torn. Check to see if it fits the horse properly as I know this harsh winter has added a few pounds to most horses.

Get your budget ready – Have you set your budget for shows, travel, equipment new purchases? Now is a great time to set some monetary goals and stick to them. Can you share show expenses with a friend who has a bigger trailer?

Why should milk replacer be mixed and fed according to directions? 

Nutrients are absorbed by osmosis.  In mammalian physiology, all body fluid compartments contain 300 milliosmols of osmolarity.  So for optimal absorption (osmosis) of nutrients by the calf, the milk replacer should be around 300 milliosmols.  Properly mixed calf milk replacer will contain 260-280 milliosmols of osmolarity, which is ideal for best absorption and digestion of the milk replacer. 

What occurs if calf milk replacer is mixed too concentrated? 

• If calf milk replacer is mixed more concentrated than labeled mixing directions (for example 10 oz. in 1 quart of water instead of 2 quarts), the resulting mix will be too concentrated (500-520 milliosmols, well above 300 milliosmols).
• To be absorbed, the concentrated solution must be held in the lumen of the intestinal tract until enough water can be secreted into the intestinal tract to dilute the concentrated milk replacer solution down to 300 milliosmols or below.
• This can take considerable time and may stall out the intestines and can result in dehydration and the growth of pathogenic bacteria.

 Can milk replacer and electrolytes be combined in one feeding? 

 No.

•  Milk replacer should be mixed according to correct mixing directions and fed separate from electrolytes.
•   An electrolyte like Kentrol should be mixed according to its correct mixing directions and fed at least 30 minutes after the milk replacer feeding.
•   Combining both milk replacer and electrolytes into 2 quarts of water will produce a mixture that is high in osmolarity (500 milliosmols or higher) and will be held in to the lumen of the intestinal tract until water can be drawn into the gut to dilute the mixture.  This can actually increase the scours that may be occurring.

What occurs if calf milk replacer is mixed too diluted?  (Sometimes done to provide water in the same feeding so water does not have to be fed separately.) 

The calf’s absorption and digestion processes work best if milk replacer is fed at recommended rates (260-280 milliosmols and then offered water about 30 minutes afterwards.  If calf milk replacer is diluted more than labeled mixing directions (for example, 10 oz. in three quarts of water instead of two quarts), the resulting mix will be too diluted (less than 300 milliosmols) and will not be absorbed and digested as well.  Having access to water too soon will even further dilute the milk replacer and further reduce absorption and digestion. 

When is best time to provide water? 

Ideally, water should be offered 30 minutes after milk replacer is fed for several reasons:

•   Milk replacer should be fed at 100ºF in order for the esophageal groove to close so milk goes directly to the abomasum instead of the rumen.
•   Allows time for the suckling and drinking reflex to subside.
•   Allows the initial digestive processes to begin.
•   Water can then pass into the rumen and does not dilute the processes in the abomasums.

We are getting close to the end of a long, hard winter that has tested all of us in some way.  With that being said, I thought it would be beneficial to discuss some basic care recommendations that help maintain healthy calves.

Bed calves for comfort – Calves need help staying warm with good bedding such as small grain straw.  Because of the hollow stem and other characteristics of straw, it has better insulation potential for calves than sawdust or corn stalks.  A calf that is wet or covered in mud and manure gets cold quicker because the matted hair provides less insulation.  Also, when the calf’s bedding is clean and dry, the calf is clean.  When dirty, the calf licks itself and ingests the mud and manure on its hair coat; we all know about the resulting health problems that could occur.

Provide clean, fresh water.  Water is very critical for growth and the health of calves and steers.  As a rule of thumb for calves, it takes four pounds of water for every one pound of feed.  Calves consuming 1.25 pounds of Milk Replacer in four quarts of water and one pound of starter is short of water.  This will reduce gain and open the possibility of health issues.  Water weighs eight pounds per gallon or four quarts; 2.25 pounds with only eight pounds of water instead of nine pounds.  Providing clean, fresh water at all times during the cold winter months is difficult, but don’t under or over mix Milk Replacer with water to get more or less water in the calves as this can cause digestive problems.  Always mix and feed the Milk Replacer as recommended.

Provide adequate shelter and feeding areas.  Calves require adequate shelter from the elements to maintain their performance during inclement weather.  Shelters should have good air quality – air high in humidity increases the potential of pneumonia.  Wet bedding decreases air quality so it is imperative that calf pens be cleaned and rebedded on a regular schedule.  Facility design should allow livestock to be comfortable and easily allow calves to access feed and water.  The water and feed should be clean and free of foreign material.  Also, it should be readily accessible, which means calves can eat comfortably without having to reach up or down.  Locate feeders and waterers so they are not too high or low for animals to find or eat from it.  Keep waterers clean of any manure or bedding.  Remove any leftover feed daily from the feeding bucket or trough.

Provide the proper nutrition.  It is fun because it is easily solved with the Kent Calf Feeding program.  A calf has a very low feed intake of 1-2 pounds per day so it is very critical to have all the proper nutrition in a very dense balanced package – Kent calf starters do that.  Cost per ton or pound is not as big a concern as to what is in it and the resulting performance.

The list could go on with more, but these are basic, but very critical recommendations for getting the best performance from Kent Feeds’ Calf feeds.  Most times, when you focus on basic animal husbandry skills and proper nutrition, you will minimize the health concerns in dairy-beef calves.  So, walk your customers’ calf facilities and help them fine-tune their calf management for maximum profits.

Article originally appeared in “On the Wing”, a monthly e-mail newsletter by Pheasants Forever

Maybe you’ve done Field Trials & Hunt Tests before, maybe not. As a beginner you’ll make mistakes and not remember everything that you’re supposed to do. The more prepared you and your dog are before you get to the event, the better off you’ll be. To help you along the way, I’ve put together a short list of key factors in performing well in dog competitions. 

Make A Good Impression

What makes the best dog? Different judges look for different things. No matter how good your dog is, not all judges will like it. Here is a short list of things that will make a positive impression on most judges in flushing events.  

1. Strong Finds – Fast, positive finds will get a judge to overlook minor faults in other areas. The instant your dog smells a bird, preferably from far away, he should try to get to it as fast as possible. A positive find is much more important then a positive flush.
2. Effective Pattern – Using the wind to cover the course is much more effective than simply running from gun to gun. As often as possible, your dog should be running perpendicular to the wind and always smelling fresh ground.
3. Showing Control – Your dog should be able to run with only an occasional whistle. Lots of loud whistles annoy many judges. One or two reminder whistles is okay, but the quieter the run the better.  

These three points are really one main point: Working properly, under control to get fast, hard finds from a good distance is the recipe for success.

Avoid Trouble

You want your dog to have a clean run with few issues for a judge to ponder.  Never make a judge think! The following tips are the obvious things to avoid in order to stay out of trouble. 

1. Hard Mouth – Very few judges will tolerate dead birds. Injury is always a possibility with a powerful flushing dog and sometimes a wing or a rib is broken. If it happens often, though, judges will take note of it.
2. Excessive Noise – Your dog should be quiet and not whimper or whine while waiting. He should also be patient and not bark at missed birds or yip when sent on a retrieve.
3. Sloppy Delivery – You shouldn’t be wrestling with your dog to get the bird and he shouldn’t be trying to grab it from the judge’s hand. The dog should come in, give you the bird, and wait for the next command.

Most people are amazed, when they start competing with their dogs, at how many things can go wrong. You need to remember that Field Trials & Hunt Tests are just games we play with our dogs. There are rules to each game that must be followed to achieve success,  but the primary objective always is to be enjoying yourself and your dog. When you have a bad day, just take it in stride and come back the next weekend and show them how good your dog really is.

To learn more about Jason’s training methods, visit www.lighthousekennels.com.

Article originally appeared in “On the Wing”, a monthly e-mail newsletter by Pheasants Forever

It Works For People

For years, business people have used pagers to maintain effective communication while out of the office. Through sound or vibration, a pager has proven an effective way of letting them know when someone needs to communicate with them. In the dog world, many brands of electronic collars have recently begun to feature a “page”, or vibration, function that can be selectively used by the trainer. At the press of a button, the box on the collar will vibrate, rather than producing the more traditional stimulation. Why not make use of this new technology to improve communication with your dog? 

Send A Subtle Message

Most collar manufacturers suggest using this vibration as a warning signal that your dog is about to be stimulated unless it responds to your command. We’ve found that the more warnings a dog gets, the less consistently they comply with our commands. Rather than using the pager feature as a warning tone, we recommend using the pager function as a silent and easy way to bring your dog in closer. The pager function is a great way to send your dog a reminder that he needs to check in with you. 

As a team, it is important that you have a way to communicate with your dog that he is getting out of gun range. Sending a silent message through vibration is much quieter than a voice or whistle command, so you will be less likely to spook wary birds. This is particularly useful if you have a hard running dog that may have a tendency to get outside gun range. 

Pager Training

Teaching your dog to understand the message you are sending is fairly simple. Start out by just taking your dog for a walk and let him hunt, or just walk, out in front of you. When your dog starts to get out of your comfortable gun range, turn and change direction, and push the pager button. The dog will turn around and see that you are going a different way, and should start to follow you. 

If necessary, we encourage the use of voice commands or a soft whistle early on to let your dog know that you want him to stay with you. After a while, you shouldn’t need the voice or whistle, and you can use the traditional stimulation to back up the pager if necessary. Ultimately, we have found that most dogs will begin to understand pager conditioning pretty quickly and provide you with one more effective tool in communicating with your dog in the field.

To learn more about Chad and Jodi’s training methods, visit www.willowcreekkennels.net.