Following are some universal color guides that you can apply when you hit the trail.

A Red Ribbon in a horse’s tail is a warning to the other riders that your horse might kick. As we all know this does happen and if you are behind a kicker you know that you need to keep a pretty safe distance between you and the horse with the red ribbon. This ribbon tied near the top of the tail is a safety precaution that visually says my horse may kick if you get too close.

A Yellow Ribbon tied near the top of the tail indicates the horse is a stallion. As it might not apply that he could be a red ribbon horse, it does indicate to the others, especially the mares of his status. Stallions are know to be very protective of mares and by keeping a safe distance you could eliminate any situations that might occur.

A White Ribbon tied to the tail is not a warning sign, but a “For Sale” sign. Although this is not as widely used as the yellow and red ribbons, it is becoming more popular in the trail riding circles to indicate this great horse is available.

So if you are trail riding on a Stallion that kicks and is for sale, you will have a colorful tail. And good luck with the sale.

The initial study in which data were examined as to the effect of BoVantage on overall feedlot performance was conducted in 2007.  Cattle fed BoVantage from Day 1 of the grower phase until slaughter were observed to gain faster (P < .05) in a linear fashion compared to control steers through stimulated dry matter intakes (linear, P < .01).  Cattle fed BoVantage throughout the trial (157 days on feed) were 25.12 lbs. heavier at slaughter than control, non-BoVantage steers.  Adding the additional feed consumption over the study, plus the BoVantage cost, returned about $5.50/head.  This economic was calculated when fat cattle were being sold for $90/cwt.  However, when fed cattle prices declined to the mid-80’s, this scenario became non-profitable.  Some additional examination of the data revealed that about 85-90% of the cattle’s response to BoVantage occurred the last 28 days prior to harvest.  This might be a savings in the cost of BoVantage while maintaining the great majority of feedlot performance thus increasing profitability when fat cattle prices are low.

Initial research concerning this late growth period of BoVantage feeding started in 2009 and finished in 2010.  As this study was being planned, it became apparent that an FDA approved growth promotant, Optaflexx (ractopamine HCl, Elanco Animal Health, Greenfield, Indiana), might be a good fit in concurrent feeding with BoVantage as it has a 4-6 week preharvest feeding recommendation.  Optaflexx is cleared in cattle with a claim for enhanced rate of gain, improved feed efficiency and increased carcass leanness.  The treatments evaluated the last 28 days prior to harvest and the cattle’s corresponding 28-day performance data are seen in Table 1.  All cattle received the same basal diet of shelled corn, dried distillers grains with solubles, KNG Co-Product Balancer 800R and limited corn silage.  The BoVantage was provided through KNG’s BoVantage product (#8111) and the Optaflexx by KNG’s Cattleflex®1600 (#8528).  All steer calves were implanted with TE-IS and TE-S Component implants (Elanco, Greenfield, Indiana). 

Table 1

Effect of BoVantage & Optaflexx on

Finishing Steer Performance 28 Days Prior to Harvest

*BoVantage last 28 days only.

**BoVantage w/Optaflexx (200 mg/hd/day) for 28 days.

^abcdLSD (P < .15)

Control cattle (Treatment 1) gained slower (P < .15) than all other treatment groups.  The addition of BoVantage (Treatment 3) stimulated (P < .15) ADG compared to controls as did Optaflexx (Treatment 2) and BoVantage + Optaflexx (Treatment 4) with the combination of BoVantage and Optaflexx supporting the best rate of gain.  These dual additions resulted in strictly an additive response with each addition resulting in a stepwise improvement.  All dry matter intake (DMI) data from test cattle were similar

(P > .15) to that of control steers.  Trends suggest that BoVantage stimulates DMI; a similar response to previous BoVantage work as it relates to intake.  The feeding of BoVantage does not generally improve feed efficiency and this study supports that statement.  However, the addition of Optaflexx demonstrates its typical effect of decreasing the amount of feed required per unit of gain (P < .15).

Carcass data were collected on an individual steer basis.  The quality of these cattle was considered less than average and the large variability within treatment groups made statistical differences difficult to detect.  Nevertheless, strong trends were apparent.  Steers assigned to receive BoVantage plus Optaflexx (Treatment 4) tended to have less internal fat (P > .05) and higher hot carcass weights (P > .05) than other treatment groups. 

KNG has formulated and priced a BoVantage w/Optaflexx nutritional package (#8107, bag and #8108, bulk) that is to be included in a 70% dry matter, finishing, totally mixed ration (TMR) at the rate of 25# per ton.  The economics of using this new product in the diets of finishing cattle prior to slaughter (this study’s data extrapolated to 30 days) are summarized by Table 2.

Table 2

Effect of Additive on 30 Days of Feeding Prior to Slaughter

Economics

*$.95/lb live weight.

   **$115/ton of dry matter

^aCost BoVantage ($19/50# bag) for 30 days (33 lb feed/hd/day).

Cost Optaflexx (Cattleflex 1600, $.34/4 oz) for 30 days.

Cost BoVantage w/Optaflexx ($52/50 lb bag) for 30 days based on

32.7# feed intake/hd/day.

Using current costs of ingredients and products (see Table 2 footnotes), the use of BoVantage alone, a month prior to harvest would generate about $1.00 per head net profit while Optaflexx alone would net $7.25/head and the combination of the two products, $9.36 per head.  Previous KNG performance data from the PDC in which the data in the last 30 days was extrapolated from the study showed higher rates of gain in cattle fed BoVantage compared to control groups, which led to higher returns on investment (ROI).  Since dry matter intakes are increased in cattle fed BoVantage, any decrease in corn or co-products would result in higher ROI.  Nevertheless, data from this trial indicate that the feeding of BoVantage plus Optaflexx returns a large profit per head to the producer.

Optaflexx is a registered trademark of Elanco Animal Health.

Is it worth taking a little time each day to make sure a feeder is flowing?  Or should the easier approach be taken and grind feed at 1000 to 1200 microns which flows freely through bins and feeders?  To answer these questions, compare the effect on feed efficiency of 800 vs. 1100 microns by using the following equation which was developed in university trials involving finishing pigs from 120 to 240 pounds. 

Feed/Gain = Particle Size x 0.000415175 + 3.066333

By reducing particle size from 1100 to 800 microns, feed efficiency was improved by 0.12, and feed required per pig was reduced by 14.4 pounds.  The savings in diet cost per finishing pigs was $1.26!  Keep in mind that these projections were from 120 to 240 pounds and thus do not include the cost savings in growing pigs and those fed out to heavier weights.  Based on the finishing numbers alone, an operation producing 60,000 pigs a year would save over $75,000. 

Given the higher prices for corn, in recent years, it would be imperative that we grind corn finer to increase the bottom line to swine producers.

Health & More Birds

With the hunting season just around the corner, now is a good time to start thinking about conditioning your canine athlete for early season performance. We wouldn’t think about going out and running ten miles one day without some prior physical training and it doesn’t make any more sense to expect it from our dogs. By getting our dogs in shape before the season, we go a long way toward ensuring a healthier and more effective hunting companion.

A high level of physical fitness contributes to a dog’s mental fitness because a tired dog will focus less on commands and finding birds. Risk of injury is also reduced during both training and hunting when muscles and tendons are strong and joints well lubricated. Training the body to recover from a work out will prepare your dog for longer hunts and more days hunting.

Before You Start

Before you get to work, it is important to consider three factors that can have a tremendous impact on your dog’s ability to function at a high level. We recommend you think of the following before starting any conditioning program.

1)    See Your Vet – A good overall examination will ensure that your dog is fit for training and free from clinical problems and parasites that could adversely affect health and performance.

2)    Choose A Quality Food – Rather than focus on a specific brand let’s just agree that nutrition is very important. Your dog must consume high quality protein to build and repair muscle tissue while supporting his immune system and overall health with high quality vitamins and trace minerals.

3)    Replenish Fluids – Making sure that your dog stays hydrated may be the single greatest factor in health during hunting. If he won’t drink water, find a good hydration supplement to encourage him to drink.

3 Steps To Fitness

Now we’ll get into the meat of the conditioning program. We base our conditioning program around three basic areas that compliment one another for a complete workout of the entire body and organs. You don’t need to do everything every day but you should try to do something each day.

1) Roadwork – We road our dogs on gravel early in the morning when traffic is sparse. We hook four dogs to a harness to pull a four-wheeler three miles with the engine off. This helps build endurance and strength while conditioning the paws for the rigors of hunting. This should be done at least three days per week.

2) Fieldwork – During the heat of the afternoon, we “free lance” our dogs by letting them run and hunt in large pastured areas at a slow but steady pace. This allows the dog to improve lung capacity and scenting abilities at the same time. It is important to condition a dog in the same heat of the day that they will be exposed to during hunting. We “free lance” our dogs only on days that we don’t do roadwork and for no more than 45 minutes.

3) Swimming – We swim our dogs several nights a week to work different muscle groups while creating less stress on joints and tendons. We have noticed a big improvement in performance since introducing this to our program. We limit this to no more than an hour and often swim with them.

Developing a solid conditioning program is very important to the health and longevity of our canine friends. Make sure that you work into condition over a 30-45 day period before the start of the season. In the end, a fit dog is a better hunter and you’ll see better overall health and more birds in your freezer.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com

An Extension Of You

There are many sporting breeds for upland bird hunting and everyone has a personal preference. In my experience, many types and breeds of dogs can be effective hunters. Most sporting breeds produce well rounded companions with the genetics to excel while hunting in the field or on the lake. A good bird dog, regardless of breed, will give you a longer reach and the ability to find, point or flush and retrieve more birds than you could on your own. The shooting part, though, is up to you.

Upland Types

There are three general categories sporting dogs used for upland bird hunting: Flushing, Pointing and Retrieving. Each type has its own strengths and characteristics in addition to variations among the breeds within each type. Following is a very general overview of what you can expect from a hunting companion of each type. Keep in mind that these are general statements and you may see significant differences not just among different breeds but also between dogs of the same breed.

Pointing Breeds

As a breeder and trainer of pointing dogs for many years I’m a little biased. Pointing dogs fit my hunting style best but I have enjoyed hunting with Flushers and Retrievers as well.

• Hunting Strengths – Pointing breeds are often somewhat smaller and leaner than retrievers and capable of covering a lot of ground due to tremendous athleticism. Some breeds have less speed but still exhibit great endurance. They will generally hunt within gun range and, upon finding a bird, they will lock on point and give you time to approach for a comfortable shot. Most pointing breeds will naturally retrieve to hand.
• Common Breeds – Brittany, English Setter, German Shorthaired Pointer, German Wirehaired Pointer and Pointer (English).

 Retrieving Breeds

Retrievers include the most popular registered breed (Labrador Retriever) according to the American Kennel Club (AKC). This is generally considered to be a result of the intelligence and social nature of the breed.

• Hunting Strengths – Retrieving breeds are known for their versatility and their ability to withstand extreme cold be it snow, ice or water. They generally have a more rugged build but maintain good speed and agility. They will quarter in front of the hunter to flush upland birds and should stay within comfortable gun range. As you can tell from the name, they are enthusiastic retrievers of upland birds and they love the water.
• Common Breeds – Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Golden Retriever and Labrador Retriever.

 Flushing Breeds

Flushers also include some breeds that are very popular as house companions due to their size, appearance and disposition. For the most part, Spaniels populate the flushing category.

• Hunting Strengths – Flushing breeds are generally smaller in stature than many pointing and retrieving counterparts. They will quarter in front of the hunter to flush birds and should also stay within comfortable gun range. Like Retrievers, they are very comfortable in water and have coats that are well suited to extreme cold. Flushers will naturally retrieve to hand and are well known for their stamina.
• Common Breeds – Boykin Spaniel, English Cocker Spaniel and English Springer Spaniel.

 Many Good Choices

The thing to remember is that the best bird dog is the one that fits your hunting style. Research breeds and find one with the traits and qualities you desire. Training and hunting with an instinctive hunting companion can provide many years of outdoor enjoyment. If you don’t have the time or experience to train him, we encourage you to work with a professional to bring out the natural gifts of whatever breed you choose.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

Steps to Evaluate Dehydration:

1. The first step is to evaluate the fecal scores of your calves.  Calves with very loose or runny feces are at a high risk of being dehydrated.
2. Inspect those calves that are at risk for the classic signs of dehydration:

a.   Sunken eyes

b.   Dry mouth and nose

c.   Weight loss

d.   Fast or very slow pulse

e.   Cold ears and/or cold legs

Tenting Test for Dehydration:

A good test for dehydration is the skin tenting check.  To conduct a tenting test:

1. Firmly pinch the loose folds of skin on the neck of the calf and check to see how long the skin remains tented.
2. If the skin remains tented for 2 to 6 seconds, the calf is moderately dehydrated.  Start oral feeding of a good electrolyte like Kentrol to assist rehydration.
3. If the skin remains tented longer than 6 seconds, it is an indication that the calf is severely dehydrated (10% dehydrated).  Calves observed in this state of dehydration need professional veterinary interventions with intravenous fluid administration.  Following the intravenous therapy, oral electrolyte therapy should be continued to maintain proper hydration.

Treating Dehydrated or Scouring Calves:

At the first signs of dehydration (section 2 above and tenting of 2-3 seconds), the easiest way to treat is oral feeding calves an electrolyte solution like Kentrol.  If the calf is exhibiting moderate to severe dehydration or not consuming liquids orally, the Kentrol should be given via an esophageal feeder.

Kent Kentrol contains dextrose and other energy sources; alkalinizing agents to treat acidosis; and sodium, potassium, and chloride to replenish lost electrolytes.  Kentrol also contains a gelling agent to aid absorption and reduce scouring.  Feed moderately dehydrated calves 2 quarts of Kentrol electrolyte solution, mixed according to the label recommendations twice daily until calves recover.  During this period, continue feeding dehydrated calves milk or Milk Replacer to ensure nutrient intake.  Kentrol (100 grams per 2 qt. water) and Milk Replacer (10 oz. per 2 qt. water) should be mixed separately per directions and fed to achieve recommended intakes.  The Kentrol mixture should be fed before or after Milk Replacer for 2 to 4 days or until the calf is no longer scouring and does not appear to be dehydrated based on skin tenting and observation.  When properly mixed separately, the Kentrol and Milk Replacer can be fed at the same time as long as recommended daily intakes are achieved.  However, never mix the recommended amount of Kent Kentrol and Milk Replacer in only two quarts of water as the resulting mixture is too high in osmolarity and may cause additional scouring.  When feeding waste milk, wait at least 30 minutes after milk feeding before feeding electrolytes, since most electrolytes contain bicarbonate or citrate, which can prevent milk clotting in the abomasum.

Match Your Style

Certain things just go together well, and that applies to hunters and dogs. Dogs and their owners begin to resemble one another over time and take on characteristics of each other’s personalities. There’s some truth to that, but there are also mismatches that take place. Some dogs and hunters should not be together because there is too much difference between performance and expectation.

 A Question of Range

A common problem is hunters who expect dogs to hunt close but buy a puppy that’s bred to range and find birds. In most cases, a hunter buys a breed he has heard good things about, and then spends his time reining the dogs in too tightly. This is known as over-controlling and can damage the dog’s bird-finding ability. You need to be honest with yourself about your expectations, and buy a breed of dog that matches your hunting style. If you already have a dog that doesn’t match your style, you should come to terms with that and let your dog’s natural abilities develop.

Do You And Your Dog Match?

It’s important to recognize your preferred hunting style. If you have a pointing dog that likes to cover ground, and you’re constantly on the whistle or pushing the buttons on your e-collar, the two of you are possibly not meant for each other. Most pointing breeds are meant to range so you don’t have to stay with him and cover all the same ground. If you trust your dog to hold birds, you can let him range a little. You can always hustle over to him when the chase gets hot or you know they’re on point. Letting go of control can mean more birds and happier days in the field.

Why Over-Controlling can be detrimental

Over-controlling your dog can have negative affects you may not realize. An over-controlled dog may focus on where you want him instead of on finding birds. He becomes more worried about making a mistake than following his hunting instincts. In this light, you can see why it’s so important to trust your dog and let him hunt. Don’t confuse letting him hunt, though, with being lax on discipline. Your dog needs to follow through with commands. He can’t read signs and doesn’t know where you have permission to hunt. Lack of discipline can also be dangerous as he trails a bird out toward a road with traffic.

Good Hunter, Good Citizen

Many people want a great hunting dog that is also a good pet. If you want your hunting dog to be a good family dog, you need to make sure that’s what your breeder is breeding. The best way to do this is to research the breeder and ask many questions. You should also look at the parents to make sure they have the kind of personality you want in your dog. Consider all of this before bringing your kids to see the puppies or it may be too late. Kids and cute puppies have a way of going home together.

Freedom To Hunt Under Control

Like good employers that understand employees and turn them loose to do what they do best, you have to allow your dog to hunt. The years you spend together with your dog can be fun or frustrating. Consider this carefully as you choose a dog or come to terms with the one you already own.

To learn more about Chad’s training methods, visit www.willowcreekkennels.net.

Feeding For Performance

As a breeder and trainer of canine athletes, we’ve spent many years refining our feeding program to ensure peak performance and condition throughout the year. Consequently, we get a lot of questions about the feeding regimen in our kennel. Following is a summary of some of the key points to consider regarding daily feeding requirements.

 Focus First on Hydration

Before you consider how to feed, you must address the top priority. Dehydration is likely the greatest risk you face when moving from your off-season routine into the hunting season. While dogs don’t sweat, they lose water through a variety of other activities. The importance of a constant supply of clean, fresh water cannot be underestimated and is likely the greatest contribution you can make to the health of your dog. Maintain a steady supply of water throughout the year and allow your dog to replenish with frequent small doses while hunting.

 Special Attention To Puppies

Puppies have 2-3 times the maintenance requirement of a similar sized adult. This makes it more difficult to meet their caloric needs as activity increases. We tell our customers that their puppy burns a lot of fuel but has a small tank. Consequently, we suggest feeding in small increments 3-4 times daily until at least six moths of age to make sure energy needs are met. Since obesity can also cause major health issues down the road, we avoid overfeeding to consistently maintain ideal body condition.

Adult Requirements

Feeding an adult dog is easy during the off-season since there is little fluctuation in their requirements. A fifty pound dog can generally maintain proper body condition on 1000-1500 calories daily with normal temperatures and activity levels. As activity increases for the hunting season, calorie requirements can increase by as much as 50%. It is important to monitor your dog to make sure he maintains the proper condition to perform at the desired level throughout the season.

 Meal Time

In our kennel, we place a great deal of importance on feeding times. Whatever the age of your dog, it is important to time feedings to allow for proper digestion before periods of activity. Here are a few quick feeding tips to help you avoid digestive issues with your dog.

1)      Avoid feeding in the heat of the day as this can result in increased body temperature caused by the digestive process.

2)      Allow at least 2 hours between feeding and exercise to help avoid digestive issues like indigestion and bloat.

3)      Break daily feeding into at least 2 meals (e.g. morning and evening) as this also helps avoid digestive issues.

It is also important to train your dog to eat when offered. This will allow you to more easily adhere to the tips noted above and avoid problems while maximizing performance.

A Winter Coat

We’ll close with comments on how environmental factors affect calorie requirements. If your dog spends the winter in low temperatures, his body is forced to generate its own heat. He may need up to 30% more calories to generate the required body heat. If he’s curled up indoors with you, though, it’s best to avoid the extra calories and keep him lean and mean. This will make it easier to get him back into hunting form when the weather warms.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

• Provide plenty of clean, fresh water and approximately 1%-2% of your horse’s body weight in good quality forage. Having access to ample quality forage spread out in 2-3 feedings will minimize gorging.

 

• Special feeding situations may need to be implemented for the thin horse if it is at the bottom of the pecking order. Feeding a complete balanced ration of concentrate feeds in addition to the forage is best. Approximately .75#-1.5# per 100# of body weight is a good starting point depending on the specific feed and body condition. Keep in mind you need approximately 6000 kcals above those needed for maintenance to reach one pound of gain per day. According to the 2007 Equine NRC, the estimated increase in DE intake necessary to change the condition score of a 500-kg (1100-lb) horse from a body score 4 to a 5 is 5300-6700kcal/day for 60 days.

 

• While beet pulp has some benefits, including a high-fiber content which may “normalize” fermentation in the large intestine, it is not particularly high in kcals and contains no vitamin A. Although processed beet pulp is not high in sugar, some beet pulp products have added molasses to increase palatability, so check labels carefully, especially if your horse has carbohydrate tolerance issues. Also when feeding beet pulp, it is best to feed it wet. This will help encourage increased water intake especially in the winter. Although no good documentation is available, feeding beet pulp dry raises a common concern that the product may swell after consumption leading to an increased risk of both choke and colic.
• A good choice for increased weight gain is to look for a feed or top dress option with a high kcal (digestible energy -DE measurement) and fat content. High fat feeds need to be introduced gradually but offer a palatable, balanced solution for your horse that will help you get the Kcals you need to meet the weight gain goals necessary for your horse.

For more information about the nutrient-packed feeds and high fat, top dress options from Kent Feeds, visit our website www.kentequine.com and check out the product OMEGATIN®. While you are there, take advantage of the free download of the body condition score card to help you monitor the progress of your horse.

Get the trailer ready – Check the tires, breaks, registration, lights and floors. Make sure everything is going to provide safe transportation for you, your family and equine friends. Clean out the tack area and update your supplies to fit your travel needs.

Get the rider ready – Does the show attire fit like it did last year? Is it time to buy new, trim down or just make sure all the sequins or there, boots are polished and zippers are working? Having all of this ready now is better than trying to do it the night before. Don’t forget to do this for everyone in the family who participates.

Get the tack ready – Take the cover off and give it a good polish. Make sure all the leather is in good shape, not cracked or torn. Check to see if it fits the horse properly as I know this harsh winter has added a few pounds to most horses.

Get your budget ready – Have you set your budget for shows, travel, equipment new purchases? Now is a great time to set some monetary goals and stick to them. Can you share show expenses with a friend who has a bigger trailer?